Most Native American jewelry consists of silver with natural stone or shell insets. However, those purchasing it should be aware that Native American jewelry has been widely imitated by non-Native sellers; for those who care about authenticity and artisanal craftsmanship, my advice is to buy from Native American artisans and sellers directly. Such work will be signed in the metal. Native silversmith families often consist of multiple generations working in the field.

Native American jewelry has been available through auctions and other sales venues for centuries. Most of what is readily and affordably available is of mid-to-late 20th century vintage. The forms artists mostly favor are bracelets, rings, and necklaces — for the latter, squash blossom necklaces being a favorite. These necklaces consist of a multiple string of stone medallions culminating in a large medallion at the base of the necklace.

This column focuses on the three main groups of Native American nations, among whom I’ve chosen just a few of the most famous (For those not familiar with the terminology, what white folks used to call “tribes” are called nations today because, by treaty, they have separate national status within U.S. boundaries – a country that, after all, was completely theirs before European settlers arrived).

Navajo jewelry

Wil Vandever was the fourth eldest of 17 (!) children in his family. He learned the art of silversmithing from his wife, Cora, whose name he adopted as his own middle name. His work used high-grade stones. It was especially valued in Japan, and much of his work went there. Vandever died in 2018 at the age of 67 after a five-year battle with colon cancer. As with most Native silversmiths, the family’s silverwork remains multi-generational. One of the characteristics of his heirs’ work is use of a variety of different colored stones.

Robert Kelley is not as generally well-known as some other Navajo silversmiths though his work won several awards. He worked in a variety of designs on rings, pendants, and bracelets, often using feather motifs. His signature in silver is just his name, “Robt Kelley.’ He died in 1991.

Hopi jewelry

The Hopi nation in North Central Arizona is devoted to pacifism. Hopi artisans are best noted for their overlay designs hand carved directly into the silver and without stones. Eventually, the inner layer of the design develops a dark patina that contrasts with the rest of the silver. These designs are often intricately carved into everything from rings to bracelets to concho belts. Hopi silversmiths usually sign their work with pictographs rather than letters. These include, among others, Marcus Lomayestewa, Ricky Coochwytewa, and Bradley Gashwazra (signing with the initials BG rather than a pictograph). Hopi culture is also noted for its pottery and kachina dolls.